Mysteries of the Middle East

Nile Cruise Schedules: There are numerous boats cruising the Nile, all of which must negotiate the lock at Edfu. As a result, boats arrive and depart Luxor continuously throughout the day. The printed itinerary is therefore only a guide and you may find you have more (or less) time in either Luxor or Aswan. The actual cruising time from Luxor to Aswan is about a day and a half, and this will be completed both during the day and at night.

Summertime Schedules in Egypt: As the days get warmer, temperatures can start to soar – particularly in Upper Egypt (Luxor and Aswan). From April to October, to avoid the midday heat, some days start very early (e.g., at 5:00 a.m.). Please be prepared for this; our schedules are designed to make touring as comfortable for you as possible.

The Ferry Between Egypt (Nuweiba) and Jordan (Aqaba): On most of our departures, we receive feedback regarding the ferry between Nuweiba (Egypt) and Aqaba (Jordan). It can be a slow, boring, and often frustrating experience. But it really is the only way to cross the narrow Gulf of Aqaba. Many travellers use the ferry and it works for the locals.

A few tips will make the process easier for everyone:

Like an airport, the ferry terminal is a secure point of entry and exit for Egypt and Jordan. Your tour leader is therefore NOT ALLOWED to enter the area. Egyptian law requires you to pass through immigration and customs controls about two hours prior to the departure of the boat.

Unlike an airport, there is pretty much nothing to do but wait. There is a small, shabby canteen, toilets, and a small tea stall. It can be very crowded at different times of the year. We suggest that you purchase food and drinks prior to your arrival at the ferry terminal.

Sometimes the fast ferry is delayed. You will not learn about this until you are inside the terminal. Occasionally the regular vessel may be out of order and an older and slower back-up boat is used, which will add another couple of hours to the journey.

When it is time to depart, you will need to board a fleet of buses. Store your luggage underneath and travel the short distance to the boat. You will need to retrieve your luggage and store it on the car level as you enter the boat. Keep all valuables in your daypack as usual.

You will need to queue, show your passport and ticket, and head upstairs. We suggest that you find seats together as a group. Onboard, there is a much better canteen and a moneychanger.

Nominate a member of your group to collect all of your passports, to be taken by an immigration official.  You will be issued a receipt. Passports will be held by immigration until you arrive in Aqaba where you meet your Jordanian tour leader, and he/she will organize the collection of the passports with entry stamps for Jordan. This happens every time and is perfectly safe. This process will happen whether you have a Jordanian visa or not.

All travelers departing Egypt at Nuweiba Port must pay a 50 EGP (Egyptian pound) departure tax (subject to change). Your tour leader will collect this to pay immigration control.

Remember that a bit of patience, a smile, and a friendly word always go a long way.

'Baksheesh' and Tipping: Throughout the Middle East, tipping is part of the fabric of life. The local word is 'baksheesh', which when translated into English falls somewhere in between 'tip' and 'bribe'. Everyone constantly tips everyone else, and foreign travelers are expected to comply with this system. It is part of everyday life and is a form of remuneration for doing something, regardless of the standard of service. This is quite confusing for those used to the Western concept of tipping as a way of showing appreciation. Over the years, we have found that most of our customers find this constant need for tipping to be both tiresome and embarrassing, especially if you don't have the correct small change. To overcome this, we have established a very successful tipping kitty system. At the beginning of the tour, your tour leader will suggest collecting a set amount from each tour member. He/she will then distribute all tips along the way, on behalf of the group, to the local guides, drivers, porters, and anyone else who provides services. We have surveyed our previous clients and the vast majority clearly prefer this procedure. We hope that this system will also work for you. The amount will vary from trip to trip, but it usually works out to be about the equivalent of US$3 per person per day.  If you are out on your own, for example at a restaurant, you should also leave a tip for the waiter.

Please note that the tipping kitty will NOT include a gratuity for your tour leader. They work hard for you, and if you are happy with their service, it is appropriate to tip them as well. The normal amount expected is US$3 (or equivalent) per day from each member of the group.

Ramadan: Ramadan occurs in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. It is an exciting (and at times, frustrating) time to travel in the Middle East. In the evenings, there is a celebratory atmosphere as people break their fast, and to witness all this is a real highlight. However, during the day, people must refrain from eating, drinking, smoking, and sexual activity, so if you encounter someone who is a bit grumpy, be sympathetic! Tourist sites are generally unaffected although some places may close early; your leader will plan around this. Most hotels, bars, and tourist restaurants will remain open.  In 2010, Ramadan starts on 11 August and finishes on 9 September, with the Eid el Fitr feast commencing on 10 September. In 2011, Ramadan will start on 1 August and finish on 30 August.

Crossing the border from Jordan to Israel: You cross between Jordan and Israel at the Allenby Bridge. This border is about 40 km (approx. 1 hr.) from Amman and about 30 km from Jerusalem. Here you will say goodbye to your Jordanian tour leader. Your Jordanian tour leader is not allowed to travel into Israel just as your Israeli leader is not allowed into Jordan. You will need to purchase a bus ticket and pay for the pieces of luggage you are carrying, and then pay the exit tax (approx. US$6 per person), before boarding the JETT bus or taxi to cross the bridge. The bus will drop you off at the Israeli entry point. Proceed through Israeli immigration. After completing formalities, you will receive an entry stamp. Although this stamp does not present a problem when entering Jordan or Egypt, if you wish to visit Syria, Lebanon, or any Arab country which has not signed a peace treaty with Israel, you should explicitly request that your tourist visa be stamped on "Form 17 L" instead of your passport. This will ensure that you will gain all the benefits of holding a tourist status while in Israel. Likewise, you should ask the Jordanian authorities to stamp your exit and entry from any crossing point connecting Jordan with the occupied West Bank or Israel on a separate sheet of paper.

When you have finished at the Israeli entry point, you will be met by your driver and guide outside the immigration point near the taxi stand. Please keep an eye out for a sign for your group. Allow up to three hours for crossing the actual border. If you are to return to Jordan after Israel, you must have a valid Jordanian visa; you cannot obtain this at the Allenby Bridge border. You will also be required to pay an exit fee of approx. US$38 which is paid on the Israeli side of the border. A bus ticket does not exceed US$3.

There is a departure tax of JD5 (approx. US$8) for all clients departing Jordan overland (e.g., road to Syria or ferry to Egypt), and this must be paid in Jordanian dinars.

Please note that exit taxes, visa fees, and bus/luggage tickets are not included in the package and are not refunded by JOURNEYS, Peregrine, or any of its agents.

Wadi Rum: Please note that the two days in Wadi Rum are quite active. You'll ride a camel, enjoy a jeep safari, and do a good amount of walking.  While you don't need to be particularly fit, there is a fair amount of activity. You also spend the night in a basic Bedouin tent. This is all a lot of fun and a great experience, if you are prepared for the nature of the experience.